How not to walk the Hong Kong Trail in a day

The "Why" of walking the HK Trail

I've always been of the opinion that as a human being you should be able to wake up and say "I want to walk 50Km" or "I want to run a marathon" or whatever. Our bodies are pretty strong and so once in a while its always interesting to push yourself to see what's possible and what's not.

So with that introduction, my fad has always been walking the Hong Kong (HK) Trail in one shot. The HK Trail is a 50km trail that runs from he Peak to Big Wave Bay crossing the entire island. This blog post covers how I did it and it's a great template of to how not to do it. The story start on Sunday where feeling pretty great I packed 5 bottles of Pocari Sweat (for those not in Hong Kong, its not someone's sweat but its water with glucose and ion supplements), 3 bottles of plain water, 5 bananas, bag of walnut and almonds and the relevant maps to go with it.

How not to plan walking the trail

I thought I would be a clever boy and walk the HK trail in reverse from Big Wave Bay to the Peak. I though it would be quicker to get home. Silly me, I wouldn't do this as you're ending with an astonishing climb. Walk from marker 1 (The Peak) to marker 100 (Big Wave Bay)- it done that way for a reason!

How not to start

Catch the bus that takes you to the right destination. I caught the bus to Shek O beach allegedly via Big Wave Bay. Only the bus didn't go to Big Wave bay my starting point and I walked the 1km from Shek O Road to Big Wave Bay.

So in addition to starting the walk with a non contributory kilometre. I ended up at Big Wave Bay beach and what a wonderful day. See some of the pictures below. I asked the local shop keeper the way to the HK trail and he pointed me to the steps at the corner of the beach. Don't go there this is not where the trail starts. To my naivety I thought the step would lead to the HK trail only to realise 1300 steps later I was on the wrong trail. So now with probably 3kms wasted and the energy of a 1300 step ascent and decent back to the beach I was about to give up. But eventually I found the trail.

Climb to the top of the 1300 step at Big Wave Bay and this is what you will see - worth it if you're not about to walk 50kms

Path showing the steps - you know you are not doing the HK trail if you see this

In summary - get to the right starting point !

Section 8 - Big Wave Bay to Shek O Road

Eventually things did start to go my way and I began my walk from marker 100 counting down.

So I started walking at about 9.30am from Big Wave bay after the first our learning how not to do it. Started briskly progressing well all the way up to dragon's back following the markers as I went along

From the Dragon's Back - looking at Big Wave Bay

Front Dragon's Back - looking at Shek O 

At this stage you are doing Section 8 of the HK Trail. This is probably the best part of the trail, a thorough joy to walk this section, as the views on a clear day are unbelievable. Note, Section 8 of the HK Trail has been voted one of the best hikes in Asia. If sheer pleasure is all you are go from Cape Collinson to Shek O Road or vice-versa the rest of the section has nothing worth seeing especially if you're short of time.

Section 7 - Shek O Road to Tai Tam Reservoir

With Section 8 over in a swift couple of hours I began section 7. Descending about a 1000 steps to Stanley Bay to what is a relatively straight and easy section. This section goes from Shek O Road all the way to Tai Tam Reservoir.

The pictures below shows what you are likely to see as you venture along section 7.

Section 7 - Looking across to Stanley / Chung Hom Kok

Section 7 - Looking towards Stanley

Section 7 - A lot of the path looks like this

The paths is relatively flat in about a couple of hours you end up at Tai Tam Reservoir. So the progress so far was good as I was approaching mid-day.

Section 6 - Tai Tam to Quarry Gap

This is a nice part of HK to walk. If you have young children that Tai Tam waterworks trail is excellent. Section 6 of the HK Trail overlaps with the Tai Tam Waterworks trail. For large section the trail skirts the Tai Tam reservoir and you generally have a very nice walking environment.

The road from Tai Tam Reservoir to Quarry Gap is steep long and a relatively arduous kilometre.

Section 6 - Tai Tam Reservoir

Section 6 - Looking back at Stanley from road up to Quarry Gap

Section 5 - Quarry Gap to Wong Nai Chung Gap (The silent killer)

I lost most of my energy on this stage. After taking a break at the Quarry Gap picnic site. I started climbing the steps to Jacob's Ladder - there must be 800 to 1000 steps to the top of Mount Butler. 

Section Mount Butler - this is what you will be climbing

But you will be rewarded with some spectacular sights of the harbour. Mount Butler and Park view in my view represent the centre of HK island with view over the skyscrapers of central and the serenity of Stanley. This is something I had not appreciated despite living here in HK for a number of years.

A panorama of the view across the harbour from Mount Butler

Section 5 - Looking across the harbour to the old airport Kai Tak

Section 6 - Similar to the above but slightly different angle. You cant get enough

Form Mount Butler you go up and down relentless hills on your way to Park View. Unfortunately it takes a long time and be careful if you ever want to do this section with kids. Its a long walk and they will get tired. In my view this section drained the most energy out of me.

Section 5 - Parkview - come here

At Park view take the time to stock up on supplies - I restocked bottles of water and food. You will have no other chances. Once you're ready, follow the road down to Wong Nai Chung Gap. 

Section 5/4 - The divider

Section 4 - Wong Nai Chung to Wanchai Gap

Here I got a bit lost looking for Blacks Link but walk straight down toward Wong Nai Chung Gap and straight across the road to the bus stop and then walk toward the circle (not toward Wanchai / Causeway Bay). One of the exits to the circle is the Blacks Link. Blacks link will take you from Wong Nai Chung to Middle Road. 

A very boring and flat part of the trail unfortunately at this stage I realised that I was not going to be able to complete the whole trail during day light. So I stopped went home got my head lamp and ploughed on from middle gap.

Section 3 - Wanchai Gap to Peel Rise

Another flat and boring section of the trail - there are some nice pools of water and mini water fall of interest but a largely a trail through the woods. As night feel you would get the occasional glimpse of the Aberdeen Village through trees. At this point I was totally on my headlamp and light. Hoping the batteries would hold out on me. As without the batteries I would have to rely on my not so reliable phone. If you ever buy a headlamp make sure it Black Diamond - they are amazing and give you great range of light.

Section 2 - Peel Rise to Pokfulam Reservoir

A nice section to do at night for quite a period of this route you are looking down towards the light of Aberdeen and Pokfulam.  You're walking along the catch water similar to section 7 above. Look and admire the lights of Aberdeen and Pokfulam down below.

Section 2 - Lights of mass housing in Aberdeen

Section 2 - Looking towards Aberdeen harbour

Section 2 - Looking towards Cyberport

  

Section 1 - Pokfulam Reservoir to the Peak

As you approach the junction of section 1 and section 2 there is the temptation to go straight up to the Peak shaving a cool one hour of your trekking time. But be aware that is not the HK trail - its the cheating trail. So watch out for the small path veering off to the left. Although not the way you would want to walk during the middle of the night it's the real HK Trail. Taking you across Pokfulam and towards Harlech Road.

A very straight trail and you will be walking from marker 15 to marker 7 where Harlech Road starts. Harlech Road marks your final climb to the Peak circular walk. I wasnt in much of a mood to take picture of the HK from the Peak but here are a couple that I caught.

Section 1 - Looking down over central HK

Section 1 - looking across to the docks

Finishing it

Eventually as the Peak Circuit end you will come to market 1 and then zero and you will know you have done it.

So how long did it take me ?

Marker 100 at 9.35am
Marker 75 at 12.15pm
Marker 52 at 3.55pm (30 min break)
At Wanchai Gap 1 hours break (get my headlamp)
Marker 25 at 20.22
Market 0 at 23.20

It took me roughly 14 hours in duration. If you take the breaks out about 12 hours. I did it in October on a sunny day and I carried all my own water and food which is a bit of a pain. If you do this as part of the green power hike you can get support. If you plan to do this seriously get a camelbak pack so you can carry water and sip it at intervals. No point gulping down water because you are thirsty the body doesn't seem to absorb it.

Watch your nipples

A strangle comment to finish on but given you are going to be walking long period of the day your clothes will be wet. This plays havoc on area of friction like nipple (rubbing against shirts) and underwear against your thighs and lastly socks. Apparently you are meant to use vaseline to prevent this. If you don't you will wake up with sore nipples and nether regions the next day only to realise you walk all 50km of the HK Trail.


Disclaimer - I walked with a crappy Shenzhen phone hence night photo's arent up to scratch